Thursday, July 9, 2009

Aputamkon and other mysteries of Downeast Maine

I solved a mystery today! So, for weeks I have been wondering about odd, yet endearing, snake carving in the bookshelf in my apartment.


Well, at the Machias Hardware Store I was just moseying around and saw a book called the Aputamkon Review, which is a regional literary magazine. So I picked it up to see if there were submissions from UMM students, and turned the book over to look at the cover and the back and saw the same picture of the snake (or similar) that is in my apartment bookshelf!

Aputamkon is a Passamaquoddy name for the sea serpent, which is known to be seen in the bays around Downeast Maine occasionally. I am eager to find out more information and more folklore about this creature, but am glad to know why I have a snake carved into my bookshelf in my apartment. Incidentally, Don (my landlord) also has a painting above his work garage across the street of Aputamkon. I should ask him about it.

Mystery #2: Why is Downeast Maine called that?

Two answers: 1) According to Down East Magazine: "When ships sailed from Boston to ports in Maine (which were to the east of Boston), the wind was at their backs, so they were sailing downwind, hence the term 'Down East.' And it follows that when they returned to Boston they were sailing upwind; many Mainers still speak of going 'up to Boston,' despite the fact that the city lies approximately 50 miles to the south of Maine's southern border." 2) I've also heard it in explanation of the logging industry. When the loggers used to throw the logs into the rivers, then would flow down and easterly to the ocean bays. I haven't verified this with scientific or historical fact, though. I'm more apt to believe DE magazine...after all, they are the magazine of Downeast Maine!

Mystery #3: Not a mystery, just a local legend
Legend (and some older lady in Lubec, Maine) has it that if you count the number of foggy days in the month of August, that will tell you the number of snowstorms there will be that coming season. I will be doing this on my calendar, just to see if it is true.

New terminology:
Chummy: Used to refer to you to someone else, as in introducing you to someone you should know. Today, for example, I heard someone introduce someone else as "their chummy Todd". Interesting.

Nubble: A small hill or rocky outcropping.


In other news, I had some most excellent (I think the Mainers would say wicked--which is pronounced wickett--right here) experiences today:
1) I went to the Machias Bay Area Transfer Station for the first time today. You see, folks, garbage pickup doesn't happen here, at least not that I've seen. On Tues, Thurs, or Sat, you haul your crap to the town transfer station. There I met Henry, a lovely warm retirement age guy who gave me the Transfer Station 101, and also offered me to come back and talk about recycling in Machias over a cup of coffee (he saw my tattoo on my arm and asked me my thoughts about recycling). He also is interested in talking with me more after I get settled into my job (everyone I meet wants to know how in the world I moved from Iowa to Machias Maine and for what purpose) to help his son get involved at UMM. Yay Henry! Cool guy! At the transfer station, for those of you like me who are garbage dump virgins...you must a) buy the specific garbage bags of the town dump. For $1.50 each, you get a lovely clear 30 gallon bag, so that they can look into your trash and make sure there is nothing unsafe or recyclable. Henry tells me this also basically helps pay for the facility and "for me to have the coffee pot running for the guys". So, you put your trash in there, tie it up (signs posted everywhere about loose garbage being unacceptable and your dumping rights removed), let Henry take a peek at it, and toss it in the big rolloff. For recycling, you just stop, show Henry what you have, and proceed on down to the carport area with all the garbage shoots. Recycling is free and plentiful! The cool thing is that there is no tax in town for this facility, but for the purchasing of bags, and it really encourages folks to recycle hardcore so that you don't have to buy lots of bags! And Henry said that he is looking for helpers in getting more recycling established in the Bay Area....so project! Anyway, I finally got all of my cardboard boxes from moving broken down (couldn't find a soul on freecycle or craigslist out here that wanted them) and recycled, as well as my unpacking garbage. Yay, I can move around my apartment now!

2) I also got my wireless hooked up on my desktop computer, with the assistance of Terry from the Phish Net Cafe down the road. As I was next door to the Phish Net doing my laundry the other day, I popped over to see if I could get some advice, and turns out they do house calls! So, Terry dropped over at 9 this morning, and within 5 minutes had my wireless issue all worked out. If I had just put the password in the OTHER spot, I would've been just fine. Hmph. Technology.

3) People sightings! I'm starting to really enjoy living in Machias! I went for a walk earlier tonight from my place down to the dike by Helen's Restaurant which is a good walk and exercise, and on my way down there was passed by both Terry (aforementioned wireless wizard) as well as Jeanine, my banker from Machias Savings Bank where I opened my accounts yesterday morning. Both of them honked and waived. Yay small town!

Lastly, a few more pictures and a video for you today:

Betty loves that mom doesn't start her job until August 1st. We do lots of reading and internet surfing together these days. Well, until Betty decides the computer is warmer than moms lap and tries to lay on it.



The sun actually came out today...for the first time since I have lived in Maine!!! And it hasn't rained ALL day! Taken of the Machias River on my nightly walk around town.


A picture tour of the last few days...

I thought I'd share some photos with you all, so you can get a better idea from MY point of view what life looks like here. I did take some video on Saturday in Jonesport at the Moosebec 4th of July celebration (where they cancelled the lobster boat racing...) and also the other day in Bar Harbor, but technical glitches are keeping me from being able to post that here quite yet.

(in other news, I have the local tech guy who runs the internet cafe down the street coming to make a house call to help me get my wireless stuff figured out on my desktop computer this morning...)

To start with the negative and go positive, here's what happened to my car the first night I lived here (a tree branch fell off of the tree above my car during a light rain):


Alas, once my car insurance policy for Maine comes back from State Farm headquarters, it'll be getting the car fixed time! Which will happen after I go and get my recall fixed on it tomorrow. Yay GM!

So this was last Saturday, when I was happily standing in the freezing fog waiting for lobster boat races to occur (taken with my camcorder):


Although it was pretty foggy, I still got a chance to see some working commercial boats up close and personal.

On Tuesday, I went down to Ellsworth and Bar Harbor for the day, for the purpose of FINALLY getting my license, registration, etc. It all worked out (after being at the BMV for three hours....I am so patient and had Harry Potter along to read), and then I got to go run around in BH. I was hungry, so I thought I'd stop at the famed Down East Lobster Pound, which is I believe in Trenton, Maine (last stop on the mainland before hopping on the island).

My second lobster roll...not nearly as tasty as the first. Folks are right...they are overpriced for what the are. I have BIG plans to boil up a lobster and find a tasty recipe for the lobster roll mix and make it myself! But, it was cool to stop at one of the "pounds" (still not sure why they call them that) and check it out. I did get to watch the guys throwing in sacks of lobsters, clams, etc.


I did walk around Bar Harbor (BH) for a while, but decided that was far too commercial and kitchy (sp?) for me, so I continued on to Northeast Harbor and Seal Cove. A bit more my style:


Bar Harbor was a good time (as described in the previous blog).

Now, onto Machias! I decided last night that I've been staying in my house a bit too much (every time I leave I have to spend money on something...ergh) so I just decided it would be good to get into a little bit more active of a lifestyle while I am not working here to start dropping weight again (goal of losing 15lbs by Halloween, 30 by Christmas). So, I went for a walk around the big block here a few times last night. It's amazing what you don't see when you are zooming around in your car!!


It would probably be helpful to explain where I live in town. So, there is Coastal Route 1 that goes...you guessed it...all the way up the coast of Maine. That is what the town of Machias is located on. There is the Machias River that goes through the middle of town, which I live one block off of (but far enough away from the coastal/tidal water that State Farm will insure me!). At the end of my block (I live at 81, which is about 4 houses from the dead end) is Route 1. Here is a shot of what I see when I am at the end of my road...one area of intersections of town:


Machias is small (about 3000 people, I think) but the community is very tight and mom-and-pop business oriented. In fact, there are but a few true retail/chain places in town (the grocery store, Radio Shack, McDonalds Cafe, and the Chevy dealer)...otherwise everything else is owned by townspeople...and many of the businesses are actually located IN people's houses...which is a real adjustment to just walk into someones house or garage or whatever. This shot is the back half of the buildings that are on my street, looking downtown. This is the Whole Life Market, which is the natural food store down the road from my house/on my way to work. They have raw milk, which I think I might ask to try! They also just had an electrical fire about a month ago, but are all rebuilt and open again!

Machias is also really charming and full of history, because the town is SO old. In fact, its so old that it was the sight of the first naval battle of the American Revolutionary War. All over town are these markers to say things about the history of town. I can't wait to get into the library and find out more!

Lastly, what comes with old towns but lots of old dead people? There is a huge old cemetary just a block over. With last names that are still in town, streets named after, buildings on the UMM campus named after, etc. As you can tell, the ground is granite...so burying people around here is a challenge. I would say they do more "covering up" than burying.

Alas, the apartment is still not in "presentable" shape as I have yet to be able to visit the town transfer station (it was closed yesterday) so after the mounds of cardboard are gone, I will take some preliminary pics of my place!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

It's ok to say dike

So now that my post title has caught your attention...

One of the things that I've been a little put off or just weirded out by is the number of references to dikes in Maine. See, in the midwest, the only reference to dykes is...well, you know. Not nice. But here, there's water everywhere, naturally it is on both sides of the road, therefore making a dike. And every business advertises itself in relation to "the dike".

There is the Machias Valley Farmers Market, then there is the old man with the awesome potbelly and overalls who sells clams, crabs, and lobster out of the back of his pickup....on the dike.


Hmm, maybe someday I can say it without cringing.


Other things I've been up to:

Yesterday I had a wonderful visit with my friend and former co-teacher Sue, who just moved to Bar Harbor/Downeast Maine as well to work with the Healthy Acadia Farm to School project. Very cool. We had a great time, had some lovely black tea to wake me up (it was a pretty cold, dreary day), went for a nice walk, and had a great seafood dinner. And I got to learn firsthand why Bar Harbor is named such....at low tide (which was when we were hanging out) there is a sandbar that connects Bar Harbor the town with Bar Island:





So, we went for a nice walk along the bar, laughed at the people that parked there cars out there (even WE know that is a bad idea when the tide is coming back in people!), saw some neat things (you know, kelp, sea urchins, crab legs, clam and mussel shells everywhere) and had a nice walk.

I once again realized how badly out of shape I am, so it's time for me to really get focused on getting healthy for real while I am out here. I'll have a walk to and from work everywhere that is about 2 miles including a lovely hill, but there needs to be more walking and biking and less car riding. Which is perfect, since I don't get any income until Sept 1st...I'm going to need my feet to help me out!

We went to West Street Seafood Grille and had a lovely mix of boiled mussels (SOOO good), fried clams (not the best), crabcakes (loaded with crab!), and clam chowder(ok). We also each sampled a Bar Harbor beer, I had the Cadillac Mountain Stout. Then it was back on the road to Machias...which is about an 80 mile drive (yikes!).

Other good news is that I finally was able to get my Maine license plates, get my temporary drivers license, register to vote, and all that business yesterday. The bad news is that it was $650 total for all of this stuff. Not only is my car insurance roughly twice what it was in Iowa (and I already have a claim I have to file...), but it cost me almost three times as much to register my car. Well, it all evens out....food is cheaper here, gas is cheaper, everything is close by in town (well town is small, so I guess it is all close by).

Today's adventure will be going to the transfer station (nice words for town dump and recycling center) for the first time. I've never been to a town dump before, but now I'm all legal and have my sticker for my car, so away with you dozens of cardboard boxes taking up space in my house! Away with you one week's worth of garbage!

Sunday, July 5, 2009

At several requests, and my own desire to ramble...

I've decided to create a blog that is Maine specific, highlighting some of the life of a Maine transplant from the upper Midwest. Although I've only been here but one week, there are several adventures, mishaps, strange sayings, and outstanding food experiences I think I should share with folks.

It's my intention to post pictures, video, commentary, and links to interesting things that I've experienced. Hopefully what will come of this is an opportunity one or two years down the road for me to look back at what an adventure I've been on.

Let me give some observations:

1) If you are not FROM Maine (as in you were born here day one), you are a transplant. If you were born here, you are a Native and highly respected. If you are from anywhere other than Maine, you are "from away".

2) Yes, people do actually where the yellow rain boots, jackets, and scoop hats like you see pictures of them. Lobstermen do all the time, and general citizens do too.

3) People here are very patriotic, and very service oriented. The 4th of July parade in town, despite it POURING rain, was very well attended, and included about 20 fire trucks and rescue units (including a rural rescue unit with logging tools on it) as well as several recently-returned service units from Iraq and Afghanistan. EVERYONE here is very independence and freedom oriented, even war nay-sayers. A tad different from the Midwest.

4) Seafood, of course, is everywhere. But the best seafood I've found so far is at the roadside stands. There are lobster pounds, which are roadside "restaurants" (they are usually trailers, or maybe some more permanent) that have HUGE outside boiler grills and massive amounts of lobster that comes out of them. I am going to hit one of these up this week. (this one is from Trenton, which is right outside Bar Harbor)


For my first lobster experience, Stephanie was still in town and we went up for the evening to Lubec, Maine (actually, the signs all say LA Lubec, America) and ate at Uncle Kippy's. I think with an iced tea, tax, and tip I paid something like $21....for an entire 1-1/4lb lobster, pickled beets, baked potato, and rolls. Yum.

On average, I've seen full lobster dinners (yes, folks from home, there is no such thing as getting "just" the tail, you get the whole thing here!) go from $13 (which is the price at the restaurant down the street from me) up to about $25. Still pretty economical if you ask me.

You can also get lobster rolls everywhere and anywhere. Literally. Gas stations sell them, restaurants sell them, roadside stands sell them. They are super tasty, just on a toasted bun. Think tuna salad, but with lobster and some lettuce. Those go for anywhere from $4-$15 (depending on size). Speaking of size...


5) The accent here is pretty amazing. It's like Boston, but with a much harder (that would be haaardah) cut to it. Some of the local folks are a bit tough to understand, but they can tell I am from away (I am not sure if it is because I enunciate all of my letters in a word, or because I just look way too excited to be there) and repeat themselves for me. There are some pretty interesting phrases and sayings I've heard so far:

Ayuh. Used in place of yup, yes, or I agree. Usually found in groups of three to indicate agreement. Speaker A: "The rich get richer while the poor get more plentiful" Speaker B: "Ayuh, ayuh, ayuh."

Sprill. Pine needles no longer attached to a branch. "My driveway is covered in sprill."

Wicked. Synonymous with very much, or, awesome/great. "Man that was a wicked guitar solo." "I broke my arm and it hurts wicked bad."

Stove. Synonyms are dented, banged, smashed: "I stove my boat up wicked fierce on the dock."

Camp. Used instead of cottage or cabin. "My family has a camp on the lake."

Hitch over = Move/scoot over.

Come down / Went down. Used even when you're travelling north. "Come down to visit more often, it's wicked boring here in Presque Isle. "

Masshole. Derogatory term for someone from Massachusetts, "The guy ahead of me was a horrible driver, I could tell he was a Masshole before I even looked at his plate.




I've had some good times in Machias already too, which seeing the local ukelele club play in the 4th of July parade yesterday. Gene Nichols, who is a professor at UMM, leads the UMM Ukelele Club...of which I am totally going to join and learning how to play the uke. I've wanted to for years, and from what students, faculty, staff, and community members tell me...it's one of the most popular groups in town:


I'm meeting new folks everyday in the various businesses I go into, and they can all pretty much tell I am "from away"...but are very helpful and excited to have a new youngperson in town. They all laugh when I say I am most recently coming from Iowa...but have nothing to say about Iowa. For the second time I had someone refer to Iowa as Idaho....to give you perspective. Says something for being a fly over state...



Anyway, I will keep writing as much as I can...probably once a day until I start work, so I can share some of the things I am up to. Once my apartment is in presentable shape, I will post some pictures of my place so you can see my humble abode.